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他是赫本的最爱,一辈子没有变过

来源:英文部分综合来源:纽约时报、卫报、时尚芭莎网
日期:2018-03-14

一直以来,纪梵希(Givenchy)都是备受世人青睐的时尚品牌。

无论是那些年忍不住剁手的纪梵希单品,还是遥不可及的高级定制,总有一款曾让你惊艳。

 

然而就在上周六晚,一代时尚大师、纪梵希的创始人、法国著名时装设计师于贝尔•德•纪梵希(Hubert de Givenchy)与世长辞,享年 91 岁。

Hubert de Givenchy, the French couturier who upheld a standard of quintessentially romantic elegance in fashion for more than four decades, dressing the likes of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Grace Kelly and memorably Audrey Hepburn, in a little black dress, in the movie “Breakfast at Tiffany’s,” died on Saturday at his home outside Paris. He was 91.

优雅、时尚、简洁、美丽,纪梵希几乎重新定义了时尚,而这种时尚延续了四十多年。

纪梵希曾为杰奎琳•肯尼迪设计多套服装。除了杰奎琳•肯尼迪作为美国第一夫人时穿过的制服裙、圆顶帽、低跟鞋,她在丈夫约翰•肯尼迪葬礼上的服装,是其中最标志性的一套。

而在纪梵希传奇的一生里,他与奥黛丽•赫本的友谊,无疑是一段不朽的佳话……

还记得电影《蒂凡尼的早餐》(Breakfast at Tiffany’s )里,赫本女神的那条小黑裙吗?它正出自纪梵希之手。

 

赫本在《龙凤配》、《甜姐儿》等电影中的经典服饰,也都是由纪梵希量身定制的。

1927年2月21日,纪梵希出生于法国一个富有家庭。10岁时他参观了巴黎万国博览会的服装馆,从此便立志成为一位时装设计师。

 

18 岁,纪梵希在法国高级定制大师雅克•法斯(Jacques Fath)的工作室实习。后来,他又师从罗杰•贝格(Roger Piguet)、吕西安•勒隆(Lucien Lelong)和艾尔莎•夏帕瑞丽(Elsa Schiaparelli)等世界著名设计师。

同样大名鼎鼎的克里斯汀•迪奥(Christian Dior)也与纪梵希师出同门……

The opportunity arose during the war when he met Jacques Fath, a leading couturier, who became his first employer. Moving on to work with Roger Piquet and Lucien Lelong (alongside the young Christian Dior) and Elsa Schiaparelli, he served his apprenticeship, crediting Schiaparelli as the finest teacher of true French chic.

1952年,纪梵希年仅24岁时,就在巴黎举办了自己的第一个高级定制系列时装秀。(其中最为出名的就是Bettina衬衫,衬衫以他的灵感缪斯—当时的巴黎名模Bettina Graziani的名字命名。)

His very first show — a smash hit with retailers and the press when it was seen in February 1952, when he was just 24 — included the “Bettina blouse,” a tribute to his original muse, Bettina Graziani, Paris’s leading model of the day, who had joined his fledgling company as the director of public relations, saleswoman and fit model.

此前,大家仍停留在迪奥Dior推出的“新风貌”(New Look)系列,习惯于宽摆束腰连衣裙。

但纪梵希设计出了“非配套女装”。女性终于可以不受套装的拘束、自由地搭配上下装了。

这样前卫的设计也立刻惊艳全场,让年轻的纪梵希一炮而红。

26岁那年,纪梵希与奥黛丽•赫本相识相遇了

奥黛丽•赫本想请纪梵希为自己的新片《龙凤配》设计服装。

不过,当时的赫本还是名不见经传的小演员,她首次出演女主的《罗马假日》也还未上映。

“Roman Holiday” had not yet premiered, so he thought it was Katharine Hepburn calling. Audrey Hepburn was searching for designs that would inspire the character of Sabrina Fairchild, a chauffeur’s daughter who is transformed into a sophisticate while studying in Paris, in Billy Wilder’s film “Sabrina” (1954).

纪梵希本想拒绝这次合作。他原本以为要来找他合作的是大明星凯瑟琳•赫本,没想到上门来的却是一位一头短发,穿着普通体恤衫、平底鞋的“邻家女孩”。

“她穿着紧身裤和瘦小的T恤。而当我发现来的不是凯瑟琳•赫本时简直太失望了。”

“我说我没时间,我正在做我的第二套高级定制,人手也不够。可是那天我们一起共进晚餐,在晚餐结束前我就告诉她,我愿意为你做任何事。”

“She wore tight little pants and a little T-shirt, and I was so disappointed she wasn’t Katharine,” Mr. Givenchy said of the actress, who came before him in ballerina flats and a straw gondolier’s hat. “I said I had no time — I was in the middle of making my second collection, and I didn’t have too many workers then. But we had dinner that night, and before dinner was over, I told her, ‘I’ll do anything for you.’ ”

赫本坚持要看到纪梵希的设计过程。她还说,纪梵希的设计与她饰演的角色完美契合。

Ms. Hepburn insisted on seeing Mr. Givenchy’s designs in progress, and felt they were perfect for the character.

 

纪梵希为赫本在《龙凤配》里设计的礼服裙惊艳了所有人。《龙凤配》果然也大获成功。

然而,获得奥斯卡最佳服装设计奖提名的,却是参与影片服装设计的另一位设计师Edith Head。

But Edith Head, the most powerful costume designer of the period, was nominated for an Academy Award for the designs in “Sabrina”.

这令赫本非常生气,她坚定的表示,“(以后)我的每部电影,都要由纪梵希来为我设计服装。

Ms. Hepburn was furious, and from that point forward insisted, “Each time I’m in a film, Givenchy dresses me.”

就这样,纪梵希和赫本从此开启了一段跨越半个世纪的时装传奇。

1961年,赫本和纪梵希合作了《蒂凡尼的早餐》。赫本在片中一袭优雅的缎面黑色修身长裙,配上超大的墨镜、长手套和珍珠项链,成就了20世纪整个影史上最经典的造型之一。

In 1961, Ms. Hepburn and Mr. Givenchy created one of the most indelible cinematic fashion moments of the 20th century in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”: when her character, Holly Golightly, approaches the titular Fifth Avenue jeweler wearing oversize sunglasses, four strands of sparkling pearls, long evening gloves and a black Givenchy dress — a slender, shoulder-baring column — that looks startlingly out of place for the early morning hour.

此后,小黑裙的魅力经久不衰。然而,无法超越的仍旧是《蒂凡尼的早餐》中,清晨流连于蒂凡尼窗前的赫本。

纪梵希曾说,“小黑裙是最难实现的,因为你必须让它保持简洁。”

“The little black dress is the hardest thing to realize,” he said, “because you must keep it simple.”

而赫本,就像他为她设计的小黑裙,在他心中是无法取代的。

“她与其他任何电影明星都不一样,因为她热爱的是简单纯粹。”

“She was not like other movie stars, because she loved simplicity,” Givenchy once said. 

之后,纪梵希又为赫本打造了戏里戏外,一个个经典流传的造型。

1954年,赫本凭《罗马假日》斩获奥斯卡最佳女主角,第一次身穿纪梵希礼服亮相颁奖礼。这件白色礼服裙也成为了历年奥斯卡颁奖礼的最佳着装之一。

 

In 1954, Hepburn took home the Academy Award for her performance in Roman Holiday. To pick up her accolade, she opted for this white high-necked Givenchy gown that is still remembered as one of the best Oscar dresses of all time.

1957年《甜姐儿》,纪梵希与赫本的合作更近了一步,他为这位女神设计了影片中多款独一无二的服装,这件一身黑套装也成了今后无数场合再创作的经典。

Funny Face saw Givenchy and Hepburn's collaboration deepen as the designer created several one-of-a-kind pieces for her to wear in the film. This top-to-toe black ensemble has been recreated on countless occasions since.

(纪梵希为赫本在电影《甜姐儿》中设计婚纱)

1957年,《黄昏之恋》。

(1957年,纪梵希为赫本试穿礼服)

1961年,《蒂凡尼的早餐》。

1963年,悬疑片《谜中谜》(Charade)中的经典风衣和头巾造型。

In another very stylish on-screen collaboration, Givenchy created the outfits for Hepburn to wear in Charade. Think pillbox hats, oversized sunglasses and this perfect headscarf.

1963年,赫本为《Vogue》杂志拍照时的黄色露背丝质晚礼服。

Audrey Hepburn wearing a strapless yellow silk evening dress by Givenchy in Vogue, 1963

1966年,《偷龙转凤》。

1969年赫本结婚时,身着的也是纪梵希设计的长袖粉色针织连衣裙。

When Hepburn married Andrea Dotti in 1969, she wore a long-sleeved mini dress with a matching headscarf that was designed by Hubert de Givenchy.

纪梵希的第一支香水也是为赫本而设计的。赫本为这支香水拍摄了宣传片,一分佣金都没收取。

When Givenchy launched L’Interdit with Hepburn as the face of the fragrance, no percentage or payment was made or discussed. 

1983年,赫本与纪梵希携手参加纪梵希品牌的30周年纪念时装秀。

Hepburn was on hand to support the designer as he celebrated the label's 30th anniversary in the form of a catwalk show.

1988年,纪梵希在美国加州获得终生成就奖。赫本身着纪梵希为她设计的红色礼服裙亮相,为挚友庆祝。

As Givenchy picked up an accolade at California's first Lifetime Achievement Awards, Hepburn wore a statement red, feathered look from his line, proving that the partnership could be just as stylish off-screen as it was on.

1991年,两人共同出席星光之夜时装节周年庆典。

At the Annual Night of Stars Fashion Festival in New York in 1991, Hepburn wore a bold pink and black embellished Givenchy dress as she shared a sweet moment with her friend.

直到1993年赫本去世前,纪梵希都是赫本的终生挚友和服装设计师。

在赫本去世的24年后,提起赫本,纪梵希说:“赫本仍旧活在我心里。因为她是一位非凡的女士。”

Before her death in 1993, the actor made her lifelong friend the mediator of her will. Twenty-four years later, de Givenchy said, “Audrey is still present in my mind, because she was an exceptional lady.”

在《卫报》一次采访中,纪梵希还曾表示,他与赫本之间,是一种“至深的友谊”,从因《龙凤配》“受命于”赫本,到赫本逝世,一直未曾改变。

Together they forged a refined image of pared-to-the-bone glamour that still looks chic more than half a century later. Black dresses, ballerina pumps, sunglasses and pearls still conjure up the image of Hepburn. That their partnership grew into “a great friendship”, as Givenchy said, is reflected in his appointment as the mediator of her will towards the end of her life.

 

61 岁时,纪梵希卖掉了自己的同名品牌,7 年后,纪梵希退休。

1995 年,他的最后一场时装秀,座无虚席。他带着工作室的工作人员,全部穿着白色工作服上台。

2010年,纪梵希在牛津大学的演讲中,给设计师们留下这样的忠告:“你必须,如果可能的话,天生就带一点优雅。让优雅成为你的一部分,成为你自己。”

In 2010, he told the Oxford Union: “You must, if it’s possible, be born with a kind of elegance. It’s part of you, of yourself.”

2015年,80多岁的纪梵希在退隐多年后,终于再次出现在公众面前。而这次,正是为了赫本。他出了一本书——《给奥黛丽的爱》(To Audrey with Love)。

 

他曾说:“我一生都在追寻儿时的梦想。现在,它实现了。”

“我这一生很幸福。”

如今,纪梵希随他的缪斯而去,希望他们能在天堂团聚……

英文部分综合来源:纽约时报、卫报、时尚芭莎网




 

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